| Tokaji Aszu |
"..Centuries of history based on an extraordinary wine, Tokaji Aszú, have made this
country one of the best producers of sweet wines of the world.."
country one of the best producers of sweet wines of the world.."
Crowned the Wine of Kings and King of Wines by Louis XIV, Tokaji Aszú has been enjoyed
by French kings, German emperors and Russian czars through the centuries.
Along with the flagship Aszú, the famous wines of Tokaj also include Szamorodni and the
rare Eszencia. The grape varieties responsible for this fare include the yellow Furmint, the
Debröi Hárslevelü (Lime-leaf) and the yellow Muscatel.
The sweet essence of Tokaji dessert wines is a product of late-picked grapes that have been
left on the vine to make an incredible transformation. A normally undesirable windborne
fungus - Botrytis cinerea to be specific - takes hold on the grapes, feeding on their organic
acids, but leaving their sugar untouched. This is known as "noble rot." The grapes
subsequently shrivel as they lose water. It is during this process that a most unique flavour
is developed, and Aszú comes into being.
Aszú (pronounced UH-soo) is the name given to these late grapes, which are collected in tubs
called puttonyos. This is mentioned because the puttony is used as a measure of sweetness
of the wine, referring literally to the number of tubs of Aszú added to the must before
fermentation. This gives us the grades that are marked clearly on every bottle of Aszú, from
3 to 6 puttonyos (sometimes abbreviated to putts). The body and richness rise with the
number, as does the price.
The circumstances that lead to a perfect batch of Aszú are in themselves rather
extraordinary. Factors such as the vine's flowering time finishing early enough in June,
ample rainfall in July and August to negate the scorching effects of the sun, and dry
weather from mid-August to October to prevent a high moisture content, are all important
requirements on which production depends. Furthermore, the rain must return in late
October in order to soften the grapes' skins, and this should be followed by a cool dry period
in which the grapes will begin to dry and wither. Fortunately, the Hungarian weather is very
accommodating.
In fact, those who have sought to transplant to other areas the vine varieties form which we
get Tokaji have inevitably met with failure - the genuine king of wines can be obtained only
from the hills of Hegyalja, in the region of Tokaj.
by French kings, German emperors and Russian czars through the centuries.
Along with the flagship Aszú, the famous wines of Tokaj also include Szamorodni and the
rare Eszencia. The grape varieties responsible for this fare include the yellow Furmint, the
Debröi Hárslevelü (Lime-leaf) and the yellow Muscatel.
The sweet essence of Tokaji dessert wines is a product of late-picked grapes that have been
left on the vine to make an incredible transformation. A normally undesirable windborne
fungus - Botrytis cinerea to be specific - takes hold on the grapes, feeding on their organic
acids, but leaving their sugar untouched. This is known as "noble rot." The grapes
subsequently shrivel as they lose water. It is during this process that a most unique flavour
is developed, and Aszú comes into being.
Aszú (pronounced UH-soo) is the name given to these late grapes, which are collected in tubs
called puttonyos. This is mentioned because the puttony is used as a measure of sweetness
of the wine, referring literally to the number of tubs of Aszú added to the must before
fermentation. This gives us the grades that are marked clearly on every bottle of Aszú, from
3 to 6 puttonyos (sometimes abbreviated to putts). The body and richness rise with the
number, as does the price.
The circumstances that lead to a perfect batch of Aszú are in themselves rather
extraordinary. Factors such as the vine's flowering time finishing early enough in June,
ample rainfall in July and August to negate the scorching effects of the sun, and dry
weather from mid-August to October to prevent a high moisture content, are all important
requirements on which production depends. Furthermore, the rain must return in late
October in order to soften the grapes' skins, and this should be followed by a cool dry period
in which the grapes will begin to dry and wither. Fortunately, the Hungarian weather is very
accommodating.
In fact, those who have sought to transplant to other areas the vine varieties form which we
get Tokaji have inevitably met with failure - the genuine king of wines can be obtained only
from the hills of Hegyalja, in the region of Tokaj.
One of my favorite dessert wines:
“The legendary ‘Tokaj Eszencia’ a precious and mysteriously sweet wine that has been
credited with semi magical properties (including that of being an elixir of life), is made from
the juice that flows from the aszu grapes through the pressure of their own weight. The
production of Tokaj is complex and lengthy and any visitor to the strange cellars
underground in the region will be astounded by the thick blanket of mould that covers the
walls and must obviously have a marked effect on the wines that mature many years in the
small casks known as gonci.” –(www.tokaj.com)
“The legendary ‘Tokaj Eszencia’ a precious and mysteriously sweet wine that has been
credited with semi magical properties (including that of being an elixir of life), is made from
the juice that flows from the aszu grapes through the pressure of their own weight. The
production of Tokaj is complex and lengthy and any visitor to the strange cellars
underground in the region will be astounded by the thick blanket of mould that covers the
walls and must obviously have a marked effect on the wines that mature many years in the
small casks known as gonci.” –(www.tokaj.com)
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